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The entire fashion show seen from behind the curtains: the final details being sorted, catwalk trials, last moments before the start, photographs and Ennio Capasa’s crew.

Pics from the Costume National Homme SS11 Backstage

For the complete album have a look our Flickr page!

Nature rock inspirations: find your summer look with tie-dye effects and a touch of colour.
Costume National 2010 Spring/Summer Collection

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HOMME
SPRING SUMMER 2010

Ennio Capasa, designer

“This collection should be looked at closely. It’s full of inventions that take traditional Italian tailoring into the future. Laser cut natural fabrics and couture garments are uncut and without seams thanks to thermo welding tecniques, transforming traditional tailoring into techno-tailoring”.

EXPERIMENTAL TAILORING

 
Fabrics, knitwear, leather
A merger of structured and light fabrics,
fine wool and silk with a nylon effect, of materials typically used for menswear with an innovative treatment
The same natural and traditional fabrics are used throughout the collection in different weights, from trenches to shirts
Everything is soft, light and essential at the core: cotton/silk, denim, juta, thin wool, linen, raffia, grisaille, pin striped
Goat and lambskin

 
Colours
The traditional menswear palette is reinterpreted in a delicate but focused way with a precise sequence of hues
From cream to black through a multitude of well defined tones of grey and beige
Lime, the single burst of colour, underlines the futuristic side of the collection while rose and nude emphasize its classic, refined elements.

Jackets
Tailored and innovative, finely detailed with a nod to the Italian heritage
Entirely laser cut and thermo welded, without seams: constructed in a way that makes them perfectly structured, pure and beautifully simplistic
Cut in two different fabrics merged together: light delicate wool at the front and translucent silk on the back
Single or double-breasted, with a variation of lapels
Hidden buttons or zippers, with washed-silk linings and laser cut pockets rubber detailed
A white tuxedo jacket in couture double satin with burnt laser cut hems makes every jacket a unique piece

Coats and Trenches
The Macintosh and formal overcoats silhouette is neat, well defined and form fitting
Jackets and bombers are exquisitely detailed
Buttons, belts, buckles, zippers are discrete, technical and almost invisible
Welding techniques allow most structures to be uncut
Pockets with a graphic sign

Shirts and Knitwear
T-shirts arrive in organza and jersey and are worn under the jackets or with shirt and a tie, creating a unique wrap

Pants
Tapered cropped
5 pockets untreated denim
Shorts

Shoes and Bags
Stressed and deconstructed ankle boots with a vintage effect
Unlined bags are folded and held together with a single seam and come in suede or leather

His work continually strikes a balance between East and West – or rather between the cultures of China where the artist was born, and the USA, where he is now based. Cui Fei seeks out the essence of things – something real and permanent that cannot be altered by cultures or differing political or geographical circumstances.
 

Nature is his greatest source of inspiration and creation – a means through which to express a thought, a therapeutic medium for healing a chaotic world. And so vines, leaves and thorns become tools for highlighting cultural and social change in China compared to corresponding aspects of American culture. In his work “A Manuscript of Nature”, Cui Fei makes use of natural forms to create a calligraphy built from universal signs that transcend nationality, culture, race and religion. “Writing a manuscript with Chinese ideograms lets those who don’t understand, recognize the materials with which it is made in a continuous metaphor of life.”

The fashion blogger Yvan Rodic, author of facehunter.com, speaks about the seasonal trends and chooses the Costume National Spring/Summer 2010 key pieces.

Conceptual sculptures made with dresses and clothes squeezed and condensed and then transformed into building blocks that become raw materials for creation: walls, books, white shapes and forms. Naoko Yoshimoto’s art is a world in itself in which fabric and clothing become the means to create pieces of unique art. Discover it in this gallery.
 

Known for his sets of photographs that masterfully balance the aesthetic seduction of the Orient with western creativeness, Hiroshi Sugimoto is a Japanese artist and photographer who uses black and white and an old-fashioned accordion-type.

His works are composed of silences and light – images that capture the passage of time in a flash to showcase mathematical concepts such as zero and the infinite and pinpoint the essential structures of objects while pushing out the boundaries of human imagination. On display at the 17th version of the Sydney Biennial, his latest work is another balancing act of light, energy and power in a kind of parabola of human life – trees of life, rivers of a thousand tributaries, arterial ramifications.

Lightning Fields is pure energy impressed on photographic plates. To create these graphic and highly sophisticated photographs, Sugimoto uses electricity produced by a 400,000 volt Van de Graaff generator then directed onto photo-sensitive surfaces. Lightning flashes moulded into pure form.