Wednesday 1 October
Parigi
Carrousel du Louvre,
Salle Soufflot
The catwalk day!
Runway day
9.00 We meet up with the press office people for breakfast. Though they didn’t finish work till midnight yesterday they have still had to come back to the showroom as Carlo Capasa has again decided on last-minute changes to the press release. It quickly needs to be modified and reprinted!
9.30 The collection is taken from the Rue Froisart Showroom to the Carrousel du Louvre. Enzo’s on time and all items and accessories are packed ready to go. The only worry now is the Paris traffic!
10.00 Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Soufflot
Backstage of the fashion show catwalk it’s time for Sally Branka’s team of make-up artists and the hair stylist Paul Hanlon to move into action. The tailors and Ennio’s assistants have been working for some time now. Some people finished working at 6 in the morning and have had no time to sleep. Normal routine
10.30 The first models arrive and they are immediately subjected to the classic trio of preparation processes: make-up, manicure and hair-styling.
11.00 Back stage is starting to get crowded. Models, photographers, assistants and the press office staff are all here. From the control room Fausto is barking out commands about the lights and sound. The hall is ready.
12.30 Ennio and Carlo arrive and hold their first interviews with the reporters. Romain Potocki is also there, the well-known reporter for France 2. Since yesterday he’s been trailing Ennio for a special on Costume National. The designer will be miked up throughout the parade. We take notes! Next time we want audio back-up too!
1.30 Catwalk trial for the models. Maida Boina’s assistant lines the girls up in the order agreed yesterday and points out the path they need to follow on the runway.
2.00 The hall opens and quite soon it’s brimming with journalists, photographers and buyers.
2.20 Lights are now dimmed and everyone is seated in silent expectation. Everyone is ready – or almost!
In truth not one model is dressed, none is ready! The girls are still in the make-up zone and back stage is still crowded with photographers, cameramen and journalists clamouring for that final interview. Ennio is describing the collection, its digital-architecture inspirations, his choice of materials, the shades and patterns of his hand-made textiles. One journalist asks the designer how he sees the future given the confusing times that reign and his collection tinged with hi-tech, futuristic hints.
“I want a future that has rid itself of fear” answers Ennio, “a future able to transform the nightmares of crisis into reassuring visions.”
In the meantime the dressers have arrived, responsible for helping the models change clothes and checking to see that all outfits are exactly in line with Ennio’s orders. Step, Enzo, Isabella and Alessandra start to evict the photographers – one of the day’s hardest tasks! They are suddenly all the official photographer or operator from Vogue!
2.30 It’s now or never! Carlo gives a sign and Fausto starts up the music. No more waiting. From the hall it’s finally time to admire Ennio’s creations, his geometrical play of volumes, the fabrics with three-dimensional steel-thread effects, the wire-netted jewels.
At last everything we have glimpsed these last few days is fully on display – the details, the nuances, the structures as well as the blue-sheeted shell-like dress. A perfect fashion parade!
2.45 Applause breaks out along with the first relaxed smiles of the staff! Back stage fills up again with journalists, friends, hangers-on. More photographs and interviews. The models applaud Ennio, quickly change and vanish. They are needed for their next catwalk appearance.
The hall slowly empties, toasts and congratulations abound and we all heave a large sigh of relief.
Mission accomplished! This one’s over too.
costumenational.com