HOMME
SPRING SUMMER 2010

Ennio Capasa, designer

“This collection should be looked at closely. It’s full of inventions that take traditional Italian tailoring into the future. Laser cut natural fabrics and couture garments are uncut and without seams thanks to thermo welding tecniques, transforming traditional tailoring into techno-tailoring”.

EXPERIMENTAL TAILORING

 
Fabrics, knitwear, leather
A merger of structured and light fabrics,
fine wool and silk with a nylon effect, of materials typically used for menswear with an innovative treatment
The same natural and traditional fabrics are used throughout the collection in different weights, from trenches to shirts
Everything is soft, light and essential at the core: cotton/silk, denim, juta, thin wool, linen, raffia, grisaille, pin striped
Goat and lambskin

 
Colours
The traditional menswear palette is reinterpreted in a delicate but focused way with a precise sequence of hues
From cream to black through a multitude of well defined tones of grey and beige
Lime, the single burst of colour, underlines the futuristic side of the collection while rose and nude emphasize its classic, refined elements.

Jackets
Tailored and innovative, finely detailed with a nod to the Italian heritage
Entirely laser cut and thermo welded, without seams: constructed in a way that makes them perfectly structured, pure and beautifully simplistic
Cut in two different fabrics merged together: light delicate wool at the front and translucent silk on the back
Single or double-breasted, with a variation of lapels
Hidden buttons or zippers, with washed-silk linings and laser cut pockets rubber detailed
A white tuxedo jacket in couture double satin with burnt laser cut hems makes every jacket a unique piece

Coats and Trenches
The Macintosh and formal overcoats silhouette is neat, well defined and form fitting
Jackets and bombers are exquisitely detailed
Buttons, belts, buckles, zippers are discrete, technical and almost invisible
Welding techniques allow most structures to be uncut
Pockets with a graphic sign

Shirts and Knitwear
T-shirts arrive in organza and jersey and are worn under the jackets or with shirt and a tie, creating a unique wrap

Pants
Tapered cropped
5 pockets untreated denim
Shorts

Shoes and Bags
Stressed and deconstructed ankle boots with a vintage effect
Unlined bags are folded and held together with a single seam and come in suede or leather