A brutal and sudden decision – a clean break with the past. After twenty
years of sporting the same hair style, Ennio Capasa has opted for a
revolutionary new cut.
His unmistakeable silhouette with its rebellious forelock underwent a sea
change when the designer decided to get his hair cut during the Paris
fitting.

“In such a delicate time we need to push ourselves further. What could be
stronger than a process of self-renewal and a clean break with something
that has stayed the same for years?
So why now? Because I feel a strong desire for positive energy and a bold,
future-projected look. ”

When experienced from a back stage perspective, a fashion show can be a truly special and unique moment.

It’s pure energy, charge, rock’n roll.

It’s always fast, crowded and euphoric!

Everyone is galvanized by the desire and determination to show off the latest collection to the photographers and reporters at the venue; all are keen to reveal the results of so many hours work spent seeking out new tailoring cuts, fabrics and experimental ideas.

It’s all part wanting to showcase the immense creativeness driving the World of Costume National.

Freshness.

The desire to go further.

Unyieldingly projected towards the future.

9.00
Enzo arrives with the collection’s items and watches over them till his team turns up.

10.00
The first to arrive are two models together with the hair stylist and makeup artist, Sally Branka and Paul Hanlon. They bring with them all the tools they need and start to take notes from the photographs of the looks chosen the day before with Ennio.

10.15
The people responsible for finishing the final clothing items and getting them ready for the catwalk arrive.

10.30
The first wave of photographers is now back stage and slowly things begin to start up. A good, strong coffee in the buffet is a must!

11.00
Call time for the dressers though right up to a few minutes prior to the show they stay outside the back stage area. They’re really isn’t that much room.

12.30
Ennio makes his arrival. For those who weren’t here yesterday during fitting, his new look comes as quite a shock – to reporters too!

13.00
First interviews for Ennio with the reporters and first photographs with friends back stage: Eleonora Abbagnato, the soccer player Emmanuel Petit and wife, the model Maria Servello and the French actress Elodie Navarre.

Ennio presents all the collection’s novelties, talks of his inspiration, silhouettes, materials and the new CN iPhone plug-in.

13.45
The buyers and reporters start to take their places in the hall

14.15
The room is jam-packed

14.30
The music starts up.
Silence falls back stage.
Ennio checks the models one by one before they exit onto the catwalk.
The make-up artist and hair stylist are still working on the girls applying final touches and details.
Everyone has their eye on the CCTV screen with a direct view of the hall.

No let up, the rhythm is constant.

The first models come back in from the catwalk and dressers and staff are as quick as lightning to help them change. Those who have never seen what happens backstage at a show might think the whole scene is totally chaotic. Far from it! There is very little space and everyone in the time is highly focused: photographers and cameramen alike.

One girl is experiencing problems with a dress as some stitching has come undone. But in less than a minute it’s fixed! These things happen. In fact Ennio was up until three in the morning checking every piece, and making changes until he was completely satisfied.

He has been working on this collection for six months but true to his nature as the true creative he is, Capasa makes changes right up to the last moment!

The last model is back from the runway. The music changes and the final parade starts.

Ennio comes out.

Applause!

The tensions starts to die down – hugs all round.

The models thank Ennio and quickly change – there are other parades and commitments waiting for them.

The assistants and dressers rapidly gather up all the clothes and accessories. In fewer than five minutes everything has been packed away ready to be sent back to the showroom.

Back stage begins to fill up with reporters, onlookers and friends keen to congratulate Ennio.

Finally it’s time to relax with the cocktail!

Wow!!

Thank you Ennio for all the excitement and emotion!

Everyone is hard at work, the models are waiting a long time for their turn, clothing items and details are being treated to final modifications and corrections and fabrics subjected to close-up examinations, outfits being tried on, make-up applied – and then Ennio’s out-of-the-blue decision to have his hair cut during a break.

Check out all the fitting photographs on Flickr with just one day left before the Paris Show.
 
 

The atmosphere on the set of the latest Costume National campaign, backstage photographs and Glen Luchford at work.

“Ennio applies the digitalization of the world of experimental architecture by translating utopias and structural extremes to the world of fashion.”

Ponder this comment by Fabio Novembre who after a day spent observing his friend in Milan busy with fitting and choosing the final items to take to Paris, summarizes the fashion’s designer’s approach in these words:

Charged emotions back stage at the Paris fashion parade, the models as they make their final preparations, the models as they get made-up, their final seconds before taking the runway, applause and congratulations for Ennio Capasa’s mammoth project.

Take a peek back stage at the Paris presentation of Collection SS09 – poetic digital architecture.

Wednesday 1 October
Parigi
Carrousel du Louvre,
Salle Soufflot
The catwalk day!
Runway day

9.00 We meet up with the press office people for breakfast. Though they didn’t finish work till midnight yesterday they have still had to come back to the showroom as Carlo Capasa has again decided on last-minute changes to the press release. It quickly needs to be modified and reprinted!

9.30 The collection is taken from the Rue Froisart Showroom to the Carrousel du Louvre. Enzo’s on time and all items and accessories are packed ready to go. The only worry now is the Paris traffic!

10.00 Carrousel du Louvre, Salle Soufflot
Backstage of the fashion show catwalk it’s time for Sally Branka’s team of make-up artists and the hair stylist Paul Hanlon to move into action. The tailors and Ennio’s assistants have been working for some time now. Some people finished working at 6 in the morning and have had no time to sleep. Normal routine

10.30 The first models arrive and they are immediately subjected to the classic trio of preparation processes: make-up, manicure and hair-styling.

11.00 Back stage is starting to get crowded. Models, photographers, assistants and the press office staff are all here. From the control room Fausto is barking out commands about the lights and sound. The hall is ready.

12.30 Ennio and Carlo arrive and hold their first interviews with the reporters. Romain Potocki is also there, the well-known reporter for France 2. Since yesterday he’s been trailing Ennio for a special on Costume National. The designer will be miked up throughout the parade. We take notes! Next time we want audio back-up too!

1.30 Catwalk trial for the models. Maida Boina’s assistant lines the girls up in the order agreed yesterday and points out the path they need to follow on the runway.

2.00 The hall opens and quite soon it’s brimming with journalists, photographers and buyers.

2.20 Lights are now dimmed and everyone is seated in silent expectation. Everyone is ready – or almost!

In truth not one model is dressed, none is ready! The girls are still in the make-up zone and back stage is still crowded with photographers, cameramen and journalists clamouring for that final interview. Ennio is describing the collection, its digital-architecture inspirations, his choice of materials, the shades and patterns of his hand-made textiles. One journalist asks the designer how he sees the future given the confusing times that reign and his collection tinged with hi-tech, futuristic hints.

“I want a future that has rid itself of fear” answers Ennio, “a future able to transform the nightmares of crisis into reassuring visions.”

In the meantime the dressers have arrived, responsible for helping the models change clothes and checking to see that all outfits are exactly in line with Ennio’s orders. Step, Enzo, Isabella and Alessandra start to evict the photographers – one of the day’s hardest tasks! They are suddenly all the official photographer or operator from Vogue!

2.30 It’s now or never! Carlo gives a sign and Fausto starts up the music. No more waiting. From the hall it’s finally time to admire Ennio’s creations, his geometrical play of volumes, the fabrics with three-dimensional steel-thread effects, the wire-netted jewels.

At last everything we have glimpsed these last few days is fully on display – the details, the nuances, the structures as well as the blue-sheeted shell-like dress. A perfect fashion parade!

2.45 Applause breaks out along with the first relaxed smiles of the staff! Back stage fills up again with journalists, friends, hangers-on. More photographs and interviews. The models applaud Ennio, quickly change and vanish. They are needed for their next catwalk appearance.

The hall slowly empties, toasts and congratulations abound and we all heave a large sigh of relief.

Mission accomplished! This one’s over too.

Tuesday 30 September
showroom CoSTUME NATIONAL
Paris, 7 Rue Froisart
 
 

Just one day left to the parade and the rest of Ennio’s people meet up at Malpensa Airport.
 
 

9.00 Flight to Charles de Gaulle, Paris. The team is bringing the collection’s final items and most of the accessories.
 
 

11.30 Arrival at the Rue Froisart showroom. Some tailors who got to Paris yesterday are already working on the clothes’ final modifications and elaborations. Ennio is making a final check of the outfits with a model.

At the same time the casting director, Maida Boina selects the girls for tomorrow’s show.
 
 

2 pm The models start to turn up for fitting. The first to arrive is Emma Mclaren – some last-minute corrections to her dress and she’s done. Next comes Katrin Thormann but her dress is too short and the petticoat needs to be changed.
 
 

5 pm Time for a music check with Micheal Gaubert. Ennio okays the track list. Forceful, driving rock right in line with the collection.
 
 

5.30 pm Final touches with airbrushes! Ennio’s assistants go up to the top floor of the showroom to complete the garments’ definitive shades and tones. They’ve been hand-painting them for months now!
 
 

6.30 pm The make-up artist and hair stylist arrive to trial the looks. Carlo Capasa describes Ennio’s collection as : “Virtual poetic architecture”…A title that aptly sums up the programme.
 
 

Till late…

Have a look to the CoSTUME NATIONAL FITTING in Milan video, final touches and the choose of the right outfits.