Considered one of the greatest portrait artists of modern-day photography, for more than a decade Pierre Gonnord has worked and investigated the psychological force that springs forth from a face. His favourite subjects are street people – silent witnesses hovering on the margins of society – whom he portrays with fidelity and colour reminiscent of the oil paintings of Goya and Caravaggio.
“Uniting both the organic and the inorganic, combining the traditions of Italian tailoring with cutting-edge research: I work to bring my approach to the very wefts of fabric. This new type of nanotechnology makes everything come alive – each piece of clothing is like an organism in continual transformation.”Ennio Capasa
Costume National’s man chooses classic tailoring: these are easy-to-wear items but also clothes whose intricate weaves and wefts enrich them. Fabrics meld into each other thanks to new workmanship techniques that allow the fusion of different materials: Cloth, flannel, wool-silk, mohair and knitwear, lamè weaves covered with opaque and wool-steel sequins celebrate a timeless rock and roll spirit.
Coat jackets are soft and structured: they are extremely detailed with livid cuts and knitted sleeves. Fabrics used are cloth, flannel, wool-silk and mohair. Wool-silk waistcoats are always worn even with pullovers and rollnecks.
Pants come tailored in two ways. Jogging style – wide on the leg and then narrowed in at the ankle with elastic – and straight to be worn with timeless army boots of crusty hide with laces and buckles.
“Fashion has to look forward and continue to experiment: our planet needs this.”Ennio Capasa talks about his latest CoSTUME NATIONAL HOMME menswear collection and his vision of organic tailoring with its unusual details. He mentions his passion for biotechnology and new applications and his green heart.
Inside the Via Fusetti showroom everything is ready for the fitting test. On one side each model is waiting for his turn while on the other Ennio is directing his staff as they make late adjustments to items and organize how the collection is going to be presented.
Ennio Capasa has always accustomed us to interpreting and analyzing his collections on two levels – the first, in which we notice costume National’s unmistakable lines, classic cuts and standard colours of his colour-palette: opaque tints, blue-black and every possible shade of grey – while our second reading, perhaps more attentive and discreet, lingers on the materials and details.
From behind the racks we can observe every little step needed to ensure the fashion show’s successful completion.
Each item passes back and forth from showroom to tailoring shop numerous times. After being tried out on the models and photographed, they end up on the parade board before finally being listed and packaged.
Gabriele Muccino insisted on Italian pop star Jovanotti’s poetry and music for the sound track of his latest film “Baciami Ancora – Kiss me again. ” A romantic pop ballad about love, life and the dreams of many. In the video that foreshadows the film the Italian singer wears CoSTUME NATIONAL HOMME clothes.
Kilian Rüthemann makes the most of the sculptural potential of materials and objects. He inserts them into spaces to then break them in order to focus the spectator’s attention on the more specific characteristics of each single material from both physical and symbolic perspectives.
Born in 1979, the Swiss artist forces the viewer’s attention on to the geometric reconstruction of fragments and on to the geometrical causality of the sudden breaking of material.
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